The Definitive Guide to Pocket Squares
The pocket square evolved from the purely functional handkerchief that men carried for centuries. As the breast pocket became standard on suit jackets in the early twentieth century, the handkerchief migrated upward from trouser pocket to chest, transforming from utility item to accessory. Today, the pocket square is the simplest way to elevate a jacket, adding color, pattern, and personality to an otherwise static silhouette.
Fabric dictates fold and formality. White linen, starched and pressed, is the most formal option and belongs in the breast pocket of a dinner jacket or a dark business suit. Silk squares offer endless variety in pattern and color, from ancient madder prints to bold geometrics. Cotton and wool squares provide texture that complements tweeds and casual blazers. A knitted silk square, with its matte finish and soft edges, strikes a distinctly Italian note.
Folding techniques range from architectural to artfully careless. The presidential fold, a clean rectangle of white linen, is the most formal and conservative choice. The TV fold shows a slim horizontal band. The one-point fold creates a triangular peak. The puff fold, where the square is gathered at the center and tucked in with the edges down, offers a casual insouciance that works particularly well with silk. Avoid anything too studied or precise; the pocket square should look placed, not engineered.
Color coordination requires restraint. The pocket square should complement rather than match the tie. If your tie is navy with red accents, choose a square that picks up the red in a different pattern or scale. Alternatively, introduce an entirely new but harmonious color. The one rule to follow: never buy a matching tie-and-pocket-square set. The uniformity looks corporate and unimaginative, the opposite of what the accessory should convey.
Building a collection starts with three essentials: a white linen square for formal occasions, a navy or burgundy silk square for business, and a patterned square in earthy tones for casual jackets. From there, expand into printed silks with paisley or medallion motifs, madder silk squares with their muted, chalky finish, and seasonal cotton squares in lighter colors for summer blazers.
The great pocket square houses each bring distinct character. Drake's prints its silk squares in England with designs that manage to be both bold and refined. Simonnot-Godard produces what many consider the finest linen handkerchiefs in the world from their workshop in France. Rubinacci's Neapolitan squares burst with color and Mediterranean exuberance. For a broad selection spanning all styles, visit https://www.drakes.com where the craft of the pocket square is treated with genuine seriousness.
A pocket square costs little but contributes enormously. It signals that you have thought about your appearance beyond the minimum requirements, that dressing is something you do with intention rather than obligation. Start with white linen, learn the puff fold, and let the collection grow organically from there.
