How Turnbull and Asser Became the Shirtmaker of James Bond
Turnbull & Asser was founded in 1885 by Reginald Turnbull and Ernest Asser at 71-72 Jermyn Street, London, where the firm remains today. From the beginning, the company focused on gentlemen's shirts, ties, and dressing gowns, establishing itself as one of Jermyn Street's premier shirtmakers alongside Harvie & Hudson and Hilditch & Key.
The firm's connection to James Bond began with costume designer Lindy Hemming, who selected Turnbull & Asser to supply shirts for Pierce Brosnan in GoldenEye (1995). The partnership continued through the Daniel Craig era, with Turnbull & Asser providing the distinctively bold shirts, often in blue or white with contrast collars and cuffs, that became part of Bond's modern wardrobe (https://www.turnbullandasser.com).
The Turnbull & Asser signature is the spread collar, wider and more assertive than most English shirtmakers offer. The collar stands firmly, accommodating a substantial tie knot without collapsing, and frames the face with an authority that narrower collars lack. The firm also popularised the cocktail cuff, a double cuff worn with cufflinks but slightly shorter than a traditional French cuff.
Prince Charles has been a longtime customer, wearing Turnbull & Asser shirts with his characteristic spread collars and double cuffs. The firm holds a Royal Warrant from the King, joining a select group of Jermyn Street establishments with royal patronage. This endorsement reinforces the brand's position at the pinnacle of English shirtmaking.
The bespoke service follows traditional Jermyn Street practice. Initial consultation, fabric selection from several hundred options, measurements, pattern cutting, and two fittings produce a shirt that fits with precision impossible in ready-to-wear. Turnbull & Asser's bespoke shirts are cut and sewn at its Gloucester workshop by craftspeople trained in the firm's particular methods.
The ready-to-wear collection brings Turnbull & Asser quality to a broader audience. Shirts are available in the same bold fabrics and generous collar styles, with construction details including hand-finished buttonholes and single-needle stitching. The firm's ties, pocket squares, and accessories complement the shirt range with the same confident use of colour and pattern.
For the man seeking a shirt with genuine cinematic provenance and English bespoke credentials, Turnbull & Asser is an essential destination. Its bold collars and confident colour palette distinguish it from more conservative Jermyn Street neighbours, and the Bond connection adds a layer of modern mythology to a firm with nearly 140 years of impeccable craft.
