The Vault

The Ascot Tie and the Racecourse That Lent It a Name

By Catherine Avery · 2025-09-07 · 5 min read
The Ascot Tie and the Racecourse That Lent It a Name

The Ascot tie takes its name from Royal Ascot, the annual horse-racing event founded by Queen Anne in 1711 at Ascot Racecourse in Berkshire. In the Victorian and Edwardian eras, it was standard formal daywear for gentlemen attending races and garden parties.

The Ascot's construction is distinct. Cut from wide silk or satin in silver, grey, or lavender, it is folded to create a voluminous knot at the throat. Two blades are crossed and puffed, then secured with a jewelled or plain gold stickpin. Unlike a cravat, the Ascot drapes forward filling the V of a waistcoat.

Royal Ascot remains the Ascot tie's natural habitat. The Royal Enclosure dress code specifies morning dress with an Ascot or standard tie. Those choosing the Ascot signal appreciation for the event's formality. Dress code enforcement is strict (https://www.ascot.com).

Outside Ascot and formal weddings, the Ascot tie has largely retreated. Its modern cousin, the day cravat, retains the puffed-knot silhouette but is worn casually tucked into an open collar, popular among Italian and French men of a certain age.

Fabric choice is critical. Pure silk in muted tones is traditional for formal occasions. Lightly patterned silk works for weddings. Avoid loud prints and synthetic fabrics which push the Ascot from refined to theatrical. The stickpin should be restrained: a simple gold bar or small pearl.

Tying correctly requires practice. Begin with the wide end on the dominant side, cross over and behind the narrow end, bring up through the loop, and arrange into a smooth puffed shape. The knot should sit comfortably in the throat's hollow.

The Ascot belongs to a specific register: formal day events, traditional weddings, racecourse enclosures. For these occasions, a well-chosen Ascot in fine silk, tied with care and secured with a simple pin, elevates morning dress from correct to commanding.