The Vault

The Bush Jacket and the Tropical Colonies That Tailored It

By Sebastian Cole · 2025-10-06 · 7 min read
The Bush Jacket and the Tropical Colonies That Tailored It

The bush jacket, closely related to the safari jacket, emerged in the tropical colonies of the British Empire during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Where the safari jacket was designed for East African hunting expeditions, the bush jacket served a broader colonial purpose: it was the everyday working garment of administrators, surveyors, engineers, and military officers stationed in hot, humid environments from Malaya to West Africa.

The bush jacket's design prioritised ventilation and storage. Made from lightweight cotton drill or poplin in khaki, stone, or olive drab, it featured four large bellows pockets, a shirt-style collar, short or long sleeves with buttoned cuffs, and a belted waist. Back yokes and underarm gussets provided airflow. The garment was loose enough to allow air circulation yet structured enough to project the authority expected of a colonial officer.

Willis & Geiger, an American outfitter founded in 1903, became one of the most celebrated producers of bush jackets, dressing explorers and correspondents for National Geographic and the African field. The firm's bush jacket in ventilated cotton twill, with its distinctive bellows pockets and action back, was considered the gold standard among safari professionals (https://www.beretta.com).

The bush jacket carries the same colonial associations as its safari cousin. Its origins in imperial administration and its visual language of tropical authority are historically problematic. Contemporary designers address this by repositioning the garment as a warm-weather utility jacket, stripping away military insignia and colonial context while preserving functional elements.

In modern menswear, the bush jacket serves as a structured alternative to the unstructured blazer for warm climates. Its pockets provide genuine utility, its cotton construction breathes in heat, and its belted waist creates a defined silhouette. Brands like Cordings of Piccadilly and Drake's of London produce contemporary versions in lighter fabrics and updated proportions.

Fabric choice is critical. Original colonial bush jackets used heavy cotton drill designed to resist thorn bush. Modern versions work better in lighter cotton poplin, linen, or cotton-linen blends that breathe in urban heat without the weight required for actual bush conditions.

The bush jacket offers a genuinely different silhouette for the man seeking warm-weather tailoring beyond the navy blazer. In stone or khaki cotton, worn over a linen shirt with chinos and suede loafers, it projects an easy authority that air-conditioned offices and summer terraces both accommodate. Acknowledge its colonial history, appreciate its functional design, and wear it as a warm-weather staple.