The Double Monk Strap and the Monastery Sandal That Inspired It
The monk strap shoe traces its lineage to the enclosed sandals worn by Alpine monks in the fifteenth century. These sandals, fastened with a single strap and buckle rather than laces, offered a practical closure system for religious communities where simplicity was valued. The double monk strap, featuring two buckles across the instep, evolved much later as a refinement that provided both a more secure fit and greater visual distinction.
The double monk strap occupies a specific position in the formality hierarchy: more formal than a Derby or loafer, less formal than an Oxford, and roughly equivalent to a single-buckle monk strap. Its distinctive twin buckles catch the eye without being ostentatious, providing the visual interest that plain Oxfords lack while maintaining a level of refinement that brogues do not always achieve.
Italian and English shoemakers have each left their mark on the double monk. The Italian interpretation, as produced by Santoni, Crockett & Jones for the Italian market, and Gaziano & Girling's Italian-lasted models, tends toward a chiselled toe, slim proportions, and burnished leather (https://www.crockettandjones.com). The English version is typically rounder in the toe, heavier in construction, and built on a Goodyear welt.
John Lobb's William double monk strap is arguably the most famous example. Its generous proportions, hand-sewn Norwegian welt, and museum-quality calf leather have made it a grail shoe for collectors. The waiting list for a bespoke pair from Lobb's St James's workshop can stretch to several months, a testament to both the craftsmanship involved and the demand it generates.
Styling a double monk strap requires attention to proportion. The buckles are inherently eye-catching, so the rest of the outfit should be relatively restrained. Pair dark brown monks with a navy or charcoal suit and a plain tie. In suede, they work beautifully with flannel trousers and a blazer. Avoid pairing them with heavy patterns or accessories that compete for attention.
Buckle quality matters both aesthetically and functionally. Look for solid brass buckles with smooth, positive closure rather than cheap alloy buckles that feel tinny and corrode. The straps should lie flat against the instep when buckled, with enough adjustment to accommodate slight variations in foot volume throughout the day.
The double monk strap is the shoe for the man who finds Oxfords too conservative and loafers too casual. Its twin buckles provide just enough personality to distinguish it from the crowd while remaining firmly within the boundaries of professional dress. Own a pair in dark brown calf with a Goodyear welt, and you have a shoe that works from Monday through Saturday without missing a beat.
